We were supposed to go to the mall that weekend but realizing that I lost my wallet (after coming home groggy from my graveyard shift), I decided to tag along my son for a cozy date at Hizon’s, the venerable bakeshop in Ermita.
Actually, its real name is ZA’s Cafe, but people seem to forget. We always associate Hizon’s for the “best-tasting” ensaymada and the name has stuck since then. For one, the appellation best-tasting is subject to much contention; “pricey” and “overrated” is a better term in lieu of the advent of much superior fluffy bread (and cheese!) from the competition. But we don’t argue with the reputation it has built over decades.
At its main coffeeshop in Ermita, the place cackles with the laughter and conversation of old folk which comprise its regulars. The cafe sure looks like it badly needs renovation; the items on the menu (even the brewed coffee) are priced like hotel fare but without the quality. It’s evident that, except for a few excellent baked items, what you pay for at Hizon’s is its name, the location, and the sense of history it evokes among its clientele.
Rightly so, my first memory of Hizon’s was a chat over hot chocolate with National Artist for Literature F. Sionil Jose. His legendary bookshop, La Solidaridad, is just nearby and he brought me to Hizon’s after an interview I did for him. Comedian Dolphy is also a regular and is sometimes falsely rumored to be one of the owners.
For the past week anyway, I revisited Hizon’s and discovered their heavenly mamon and toasted yema. The latter is not your usual Filipino dessert of creamed condensed milk, it was your regular chiffon cake toasted till a light brown, then topped with some sugar and butter. I swore I finished two slices on the spot. And to think I always prided myself for not having a sweet tooth.
On this Sunday, I visit Hizon’s again with my son for two reasons: 1) satisfy my addiction for toasted yema, and 2) bemoan the loss of my wallet (earlier salvaged from a Good Samaritan in Malaysia)
My son, anxious to assuage my depression, was all too willing to give me some advice:
“Don’t worry Mom. Just move on.. Forgive and forget.”
I was somewhat startled that a nine-year old (least of all my beloved son) can tell me something like that. It’s a cliche to adults, but how many of us actually think this way and apply it to our daily lives??
” Just move on… forgive and forget.”
After hearing this, my sadness was gone and Hizon’s toasted yema tasted yummier than ever.
Hizon’s (a.k.a. ZA’s cafe)
1197 Jorge C. Bocobo St. cor. Arquiza
Ermita, Manila
I think that is a nice place umhhh planning to be there soon…
hi,
too bad i wasn’t able to wander to into Ermita where ZA Cafe is when I was in Manila.A friend brought me to Mary Grace at Serendra for a merienda of tsokolate and queso de bola drizzled ensaimada after checking Tiendesitas.
Hi Angelo. I hear Mary Grace ensaymada is good too. I wonder what other treats they have?…
At Mary Grace’s, I saw a small group ladies having pasta.There were a couple of cakes and sweets displayed on the pastry chiller but I really did not take time to identify them. I was so focused dunking the ensaimada on the thick naive tsokolate.Yup, they were delicious.
Thanks for visiting my site.And perhaps you won’t mind if I add your food blog to my site.
Lastly, an official confession. I’ve been a regular lurker of “Writings on the Wall” for some time and somehow got engrossed with the travails and triumphs, much more, the complex and voracious(just kidding) eating habits of a mother named Ajay.
i meant to write native tsokolate not naive tsokolate. there was nothing prude or innocent about that tsokolate.it was bursting with dark, seductive flavors.
Hi George. Do add me. I’ll have to try Mary Grace one of these days, as I see some of their stalls in the malls. It’s great to discover that you’re now into food blogging..another yummy site to visit. More power!
hi! well hizon’s is a tradition in my family for decades- coffee or tea at meryenda time on christmas and New Year wasnt complete without Hizon’s famous ensaymadas – rich rich rich oozing with sugar and butter and their huge slices of raisin bread sumptuous enough to eat without spread at all… plus slivers of queso de bola (the real thing, duck brand or pato i think it was called)…. wasnt the coffee drinking i think but the ritual of it and the sense of continuing a family tradition of connection with the past…
i used to bring my sons when they were little to lunch there – mostly old folks and dolphy around- the servings were large awesome for the boys! we loved their omelettes and hamburger steak with gravy and a big candied yam! wow ive never seen or tasted such orange coloured yams in any place except Hizon’s!
its worth all the trip from quezon city all the dirt and smell of Manila…
so, in essence i wouldnt trade Hizon’s for any ensaymada out there. just sampled Mary Grace ensaymada by the way it was delicious but i ended up yearning for Hizon’s ensaymada.
Bu then its a matter of taste…
Hello. I chanced upon your blog while looking for the history of hizons cafe. If im not mistaken, the original name IS actually Hizon’s cafe. Then when the owner remarried, it was re-named Za’s (for Zamora i think, which was the last name of the husband?). After a few years, it was re-named back to Hizons.
Thanks for the info:)